Two days in Leavenworth

A second Denali prep post is coming soon, but the adventures in Washington haven’t stopped, so the blogging won’t either.

After a few days up north in Bellingham painting a boat hull, I headed over towards Leavenworth to meet up with Chris and Woody. Chris and I planned to climb at the Index crags en route. True to form, the sunshine broke down into rain the minute we were both in the parking lot. Stevens Pass saw a full on snowstorm while we drove through, and as sure as it’s always rainy in Index, it was sunny in Leavenworth.

Stopped by the Mountain Equipment office to pick up some beta and found that the last of my Denali gear had arrived. There’s a disconnect between the 70F temps in the parking lot and the cold temps this stuff is designed for, and so I wandered across the street and we took a photo. Down coat, alti mitts, balaclava, insulated pants, and spring flowers.

After that, Chris and I headed back up Tumwater Canyon to Castle Rock. Warmups happened on Angel Crack, a 5.10b finger crack which also happened to be my first ever. It’s a classic example of why badass climbing photos are easier to come by than skiing ones. Judging the picture below, you might think I’m a solid ways off the deck on some classic of finger-wrenching bliss.

Instead, the whole route can be summarized thus:

We moved over to a 5.9 offwidth just next to it called Damnation Crack. Per usual, Chris lead it in fine style. Here’s his selfie from the midway rest ledge.

I hopped on the Struggle Bus for a ride of exasperation and expletives in the first few moves. Not much feet to speak of, but after pulling on the first two pieces of gear, I made it into the true offwidth and shimmied up.

Here’s another misleading photo. Given the large pile of expensive metal slung under my arm, you’d probably not know that I can’t properly set any of it. Judging by the rope, it looks like I lead my way over there instead of being headed toward the belay station.

Topped out with Chris before heading to South for dinner.

That night, I drove out to Woody’s place in Plain. The next day, we headed up towards Merritt Lake. The drive out was uneventful until we hit the typical spring snowblock on an access road. That lead to the typical walk with hiking boots up the bare trail until we hit snowline.

Shortly before we put some glopstopper on our skins, I did a demo of dramatized touring.
A bit like Ministry of Silly Walks for the skin track.

Another shot of walking up. Oh, the gravity.

We decided to head up towards Mt. Mastiff, but a casual start had baked the snowpack. Traversing the ridge seemed imprudent, so I took some more photos.


Looking up the ridge at the summit. Another day.

Dropping down to where we ate lunch, the call was made to ski a sheltered, north facing coulior. I ski cut it, we both skied two short pitches, then a small (10ft by 10ft) wet slab triggered below Woody and ran over the tips of my skis. Something like 8″ of shmoo atop a refreeze crust. Time to pull the plug. Time to be thankful we didn’t try to push it on bigger slopes. We booted back up and skied down our skin track.

“I’ll slash that shaft of sun like it’s actually dry powder or something.”

Woody, after a detour ruined his speed.

After a rousing bit of searching for where we’d stashed our boots (which I had skied right past), we headed down the trail and back to the truck.

We’re headed off to climb tomorrow morning, so I’ll update that later. Big thanks to Woody and Chris for the photos, Woody and Mindy for their hospitality, and to Chris Rudolph for once buying a pink cosmopolitan for Gregg Winter at South so I can remember it now.

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